When discussing cuisine in the homeland of European gastronomy, France, the conversation inevitably turns to chicken. Not only is it the national symbol but it is deeply rooted in the culinary culture, as evident in the longstanding tradition of enjoying chicken dishes on Sundays. In this "chicken nation," there is a Korean restaurant that has made a mark with its Samgyetang. The restaurant that exudes a sense of warmth right from its name is 'JONG-NO Samgyetang.'

JONG-NO Samgyetang specializes in serving Samgyetang in Paris. It has been recognized as an outstanding restaurant on 'TheFork,' a prominent European restaurant platform, and has maintained a perfect 5.0 rating on the global travel platform 'TripAdvisor.' Earlier this year, it was honored as one of the 'Best Overseas Restaurant for 2022', designated by the Ministry of Agriculture, Food, and Rural Affairs and the Korean Food Promotion Institute.

We had the opportunity to hear the story of Seung-kyun Jeong, the founder of JONG-NO Samgyetang, who has been with the restaurant from its inception to today.

Opening a Traditional Samgyetang Restaurant in France

Jeong majored in Hansik (Korean cuisine) in university, and with aspirations to share the taste of Korea with the world, he tapped into the international food market early on. However, his journey was far from smooth. Amidst trials and failures, fate led him to work as an expatriate in France. Jeong reminisced, "During my expatriate work, I diligently researched the local ingredient distribution and the dining-out market." After closely studying the French dining culture and the feasibility of sourcing local ingredients, Jeong finally decided to open a Korean restaurant in France.

Jeong explained, "In France, perhaps due to the openness and respect for diversity, many people embraced Samgyetang as a unique culinary experience that they couldn't easily encounter within Europe. The French are open-minded, and many saw the tasting of Samgyetang as an opportunity for a new culinary adventure."

Nevertheless, opening the restaurant was not without its challenges. Jeong had to navigate the intricacies of the French system, including taxes and fees, which he had to deal with hands-on. Moreover, due to limited availability of imported Korean ingredients and processed goods, and the scarcity of fresh produce, there were numerous constraints on developing new menu items. Despite the tough times, Jeong focused on honing his expertise and providing an experience distinct from existing Korean restaurants. Thus, 'JONG-NO Samgyetang' was finally conceived, and it has since received unwithering affection from locals and travelers alike.

"Just as you would Taste and Feel in Korea"

JONG-NO Samgyetang aimed to deliver the exact same taste and service that one would encounter in everyday Korea. They replicated the authentic Korean restaurant experience, from the bubbling Samgyetang in a pot to the little chicken bone dispensers on the table, not to mention the neatly presented Kkakdugi (diced radish kimchi). The dishes used to serve the food were directly brought from Korea, reflecting Jeong's strong desire to provide the most authentic Korean experience to the French locals.

They also adhere to strict principles to ensure the best taste. Jeong personally oversees cooking and insists on same-day production and sales to prioritize the freshness of the food. Jeong described JONG-NO Samgyetang as "food that, with just one bite, you can immediately recognize as Korean, yet infused with my unique creativity."

Jeong mentioned the varying perceptions of Samgyetang among his customers. "Most customers from Northeast Asian countries perceive Samgyetang as a healthy dish, almost like a medicinal food. However, customers from Western and African countries often see Samgyetang as a delicacy, part of a cultural experience in trying various Korean dishes," he explained. Therefore, he focused on providing not only the healthy Korean taste but also the everyday services unique to Korean restaurants.

The entire menu, including the signature JONG-NO Samgyetang, as well as Sokcho Dakgangjeong (fried chicken with sweet and sour sauce), Yanggu Hobakjeon (pan-fried battered zucchini), and Dongrae Pajeon (green onion pancake), include the names of specific regions in Korea. This inclusion reflects Jeong's desire to showcase the diversity of Korean cuisine. Jeong stated, "I wanted to show that Bibimbap and Bulgogi are not the entirety of Korean cuisine. I wanted to express that Korean food varies by region, with different local specialties even for the same dish."

The local response to the Samgyetang restaurant, which offers the taste and experience of Korea, was nothing less than hot! The restaurant got featured in prominent media outlets such as 'Le Figaro,' one of France's top three newspapers, and gathered the attention of Parisian food enthusiasts looking for new culinary experiences. "We even received a thank-you letter from the mayor of Paris,” proudly said Jeong.

The Expanding World of Korean Cuisine in Europe

With Samgyetang being embraced in Paris, the Korean cuisine market in Europe is rapidly expanding. Jeong stated, "In the past, Korean restaurants in Europe were mainly divided into two categories: barbecue-focused restaurants and places that offered other types of Korean dishes. Local customers were only familiar with basics like Bibimbap, Kimchi, and Bulgogi. Around the time when JONG-NO Samgyetang opened, the classification of Korean cuisine, including Korean cafes and snack bars, became more refined and restaurant owners started to specialize in specific menus." Jeong explained that the growth in the cultural market, including K-pop and K-dramas, has greatly impacted the awareness level of Korean cuisine.

"Psy's 'Gangnam Style' which became a worldwide smash hit introduced the Korean drinking culture to the world and the following popularity of K-drama and K-music led to an increased interest and demand for various experiences of the everyday Korean life," said Jeong.

He further explained, "Unlike Chinese food or Vietnamese Pho, which are often consumed for a quick meal, visits to Korean restaurants encompasses an experiential aspect, which is to explore the Korean culture," therefore "there is an expectation and demand for the same kind of experience as in Korea."

"I aspire to promote not only Korean Food, but the Korean culture."

When asked about his future goals, Jeong replied, "I aspire to providing the most authentic Korean food and experiences. Beyond Samgyetang, I hope to offer a variety of Korean cuisine in France ranging from traditional to contemporary dishes, Korean street food and food reminiscent of my childhood, as well as everyday ordinary dishes that Koreans enjoy."

Furthermore, he dreams of opening restaurants where one can experience various aspects of Korean cuisine, such as a Korean barbecue-butcher shop restaurant, Bunsikjip (a snack shop), and specialized temple cuisine establishments. Finally, Jeong stated, "My ultimate goal is to create a small street where Korean food and culture come together; a place where people can come and enjoy the everyday Korean lifestyle."

종로 삼계탕 (JONG-NO Samgyetang)
Address │ 23 Boulevard de Port-Royal, 75013 Paris, France
Hours │ Tuesday - Saturday (12:00PM – 2:00PM, 7:00PM – 10:00PM) / Closed on Sundays, Mondays