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2021
40

Vol 44. Harmony of Korean Food and Liquor

Our Liquors Embracing the Season

Seasonal Liquors Created with the Ancestors’ Wisdom / HANSIK & Culture — Tasty Road

2021/10/01 16:20:00
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Seasonal foods have the flavor and nutrition that can only be enjoyed during a particular season. 
Since the ancient times in Korea, there has been a “seasonal liquor”’ for every season. 
The word “season” in front of liquor does not seem to go together, but our ancestors thought about the harmony with nature in the process of making liquors. Due to their efforts and wisdom, the flavor and ambience of the season could be contained in the glass.  

 


Savoring the Luxurious Color of Pear Blossoms with       “Yihwaju”

When pear blossoms covered an entire mountain in white, the nobility enjoyed the spring leisurely while making and drinking a unique type of alcohol. The name of this liquor is “yihwaju” because “it is made when the pear blossoms.” Although it is not gahyangju(fragrant liquor) flavored by adding flowers, it has a milky color and a sweet yeast scent that reminds you of a pear flower. Contrary to its pretty name, the process of making yihwaju is very complicated and laborious. First, the non-sticky rice is washed and soaked, and then ground into powder to make the yeast. Next, the holed(donut shape) rice cake is made with non-sticky rice, cooked, and kneaded hard. The holed rice cake is cooled, mixed with the sieved rice and yeast, and fermented for about 2 weeks to make takju with a rich, fruity aroma. Yihwaju is characterized by its thick, chewy texture, like thick porridge, so it is eaten like yogurt or dissolved in cold water to drink.  
Due to its low alcohol content, elderly people and children enjoyed it as a snack, but it was not something that everyone could enjoy. It seems to have been a seasonal liquor for some wealthy people, rather than being enjoyed by the public, because it is made by using only non-sticky rice, unlike making yeast with various grains in general. We could assume that the recipe of yihwaju appeared in various literature starting with <Sanga Yorok>, which was written around 1450, and that yihwaju must have been a special and valuable liquor that only a few could enjoy. Yihwaju, boasting of a sweet and sour flavor mingled with the taste of gentle savory, is a traditional liquor that fills the drinker’s palate with a fragrant scent, as if awakening the languor of the spring season.


Overcoming the Vigor of the Hot Season with       “Gwahaju”

The fierce summer heat can spoil food quickly. And liquor is no exception. Gokju, made by mixing yeast and water with grain and fermenting it, has good flavor and aroma, but it spoils easily at room temperature due to its low alcohol content. On the other hand, distilled liquors, such as soju, can be kept and consumed for a long time. However, they have a strong taste and can easily get you drunk, so it is not ideal to enjoy them often. Isn’t there a way to get both the taste of gokju and the storability of distilled liquors? With their wisdom, our ancestors created a liquor that overcame the shortcomings of fermented liquor and soju. Its name is gwahaju, meaning “a liquor that does not change even after the summer,” and it contains the world’s oldest “honyangju(mixed liquor)” brewing method. When the fermentation and ripening process is repeated by adding distilled soju with high alcohol content in the middle of the fermenting process of takju and cheongju, gwahaju, boasting of its subtle color, smooth taste, and excellent aroma, is made. This type of brewing is a singular method that cannot be found in the East, where yeast and grains are used as the main ingredients for making liquors. 
Gwahaju has been made in various regions around Seoul since the early days of the Joseon Dynasty, and, among them, gwahaju products from Gimcheon, Gyeongbuk and Jeonju, Jeonbuk are famous.
 

Intoxicated with the Rich Scent of Flowers and Medicinal Herbs with        “Gukhwaju”

Chrysanthemum is a representative ingredient for adding flavor to traditional liquor, and since the ancient times, our people have enjoyed the taste of the autumn seasons by infusing the scent of chrysanthemum in liquor. Gukhwaju is made based on the method of infusing the scent of chrysanthemum in gokju by mixing rice, yeast, and water. There are many types of gukhwaju, such as by mixing in fresh flowers during the brewing process, increasing the aroma and medicinal efficacy by adding water decocted with various medicinal herbs, and one called hwanggeumju with the same hue as gukhwaju, though no chrysanthemum was used. 
Gukhwaju was also a representative seasonal liquor, which is closely related to Jungyangjeol. In the past, Jungyangjeol, which was the ninth day of the ninth lunar month, was one of the biggest holidays. It was the most energetic day of the year, so it was believed that if you climbed up to a high place and got close to the sun, you would be able to spend the year in good health. There was a custom of climbing mountains on Jungyangjeol, and, at this time, it was a familiar autumn scene to see people picking chrysanthemums that were blooming in the wild and floating them in tea or alcohol.
Gukhwaju has the best aroma, and has been loved as a medicinal liquor since the ancient times because it has the effect of lightening the body and clearing the mind, detoxifying the blood, and dilating peripheral blood vessels.
 

Coveting the Strong Vitality of Winter Flowers with      “Maehwaju”

Maehwa(plum blossom) blooms through the harsh cold of winter. Its aroma is pure and refined, and it has been widely used as an ingredient for liquor and tea. Since it symbolizes iron will and integrity, it was a representative flower for the admiration of scholars, and perhaps they had a drinking party when plum blossoms bloomed. If you float a white petal of plum blossom in your glass while having drinks with your friend and looking out the window to see a snowing scenery, the alcohol content in the drink evaporates, and embraces the scent of plum blossoms so the taste of your drink would become more aromatic. 
Plum blossoms can be obtained in early March in the southern region and around the end of March in the central region. Thus, it is best to collect the flowers and make liquor as soon as possible. The fresh petals are mixed together when making liquor, and the dried petals are put in a hemp bag and then put into the liquor jar or letting it float there when it is made. Cover the lid, and leave it for one or two days. When you open it, you will notice the scent of plum blossom wafting up. 
Plum blossoms also contain citric acid and malic acid from plums, so it is effective for fatigue recovery and indigestion.  

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