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Interview with 'COTE', the Best Overseas Korean Restaurant
HANSIK & People
Among the steakhouses making a name for themselves in New York, 'COTE' stands out. It has pioneered the genre of 'Korean Steakhouse’, showcasing a flexible harmony between Korean culinary culture and local customs. It is currently the only Korean-style steakhouse in the United States to have earned a Michelin star. In 2023, it was designated as a 'Best Overseas Korean Restaurant' by the Ministry of Agriculture, Food and Rural Affairs and the Korean Food Promotion Institute, reaffirming its excellence once again.
What is the allure of COTE that has captivated steak aficionados worldwide? We had the pleasure of sitting down with David Shim, the Global Head Chef, who has been with COTE since its opening in 2017 until today.
Blossoming Korean-Style Grilling Culture in the U.S.
First time visitors to COTE are often surprised by its ambiance, which differs significantly from other steakhouses. Contrary to the conventional perception that upscale restaurants are static and subdued, COTE is filled with lively music and energy. Chef Shim explains that this reflects the Korean culture of enjoying meals together in a festive atmosphere. "COTE has an exciting atmosphere. It embodies the Korean culture of gathering around a table, grilling meat, enjoying drinks, and engaging in lively conversations", he said.
The Korean-style grilling culture, where guests grill meat on tabletop grills, offers a unique experience for local diners. Unlike Western steakhouses where cooking is completed in the kitchen, here, guests can witness the entire cooking process right before their eyes. At COTE, specially trained staff grill the meat using the grill right at the table. Chef Shim describes this process as 'magic'. He expressed, "I believe it's this 'magic' of engaging with guests, chatting while the meat cooks to perfection, that appeals to the locals."
▲ The Butcher's Feast® menu features premium beef certified by the US Department of Agriculture (USDA), served with a variety of side dishes.
Utilizing domestically sourced ingredients like ganjang (soy sauce), salt, and peppers for the banchan (side dishes) crafted at COTE are another highlight. Chef Shim explains, "We serve homemade pickled vegetables, kimchi, and various vegetables alongside the meat," adding, "The ability to enjoy diverse and healthy foods is another charm of COTE." Under the slogan ‘Beef & Leaf’, COTE encourages pairing meat with lighter vegetables instead of the heavier steak side dishes. This naturally promotes Korea's culture of ssam (leaf wraps) and banchan.
The effort to promote Korean culture extends beyond just the food—it permeates throughout the entire restaurant. Chef Shim remarked, "Having great Korean food alone isn't enough to make a great Korean restaurant." "We also thought about ways to promote Korea through our service." At COTE, they conduct cultural education sessions for local staff. These sessions cover not only Korean language terms commonly used in the restaurant but also include experiences like banchan and grill classes. The core focus is on helping local staff embody Korean culture and effectively communicate it to guests.
The Best Ingredients, the Finest Efforts
The quality of ingredients stands as the foremost priority at COTE. Chef Shim emphasized that good ingredients stem from good relationships. A harmonious relationship with producers ultimately results in the procurement of high-quality ingredients. He emphasized "If the meat doesn't meet COTE's standards even in the slightest, we return it immediately. This is possible due to the strong trust built over time with our suppliers."
▲ COTE's Dry Aging Room. Through extended aging in a dry environment, the meat develops rich flavors.
COTE conducts its own dry-aging process to enhance the flavor and richness of the meat. Each dry-aging room possesses its unique aroma and characteristics, requiring meticulous control of temperature and humidity to preserve these distinct qualities. Chef David Shim explained, "Creating the ideal conditions in COTE's dry-aging rooms required a lot of time and effort."
With meticulous attention given to every step from sourcing to storage of the meat, the taste of the dishes receives top-notch evaluations. Chef David Shim proudly shared, “The galbi (short ribs) served at COTE is highly popular among both local and Korean guests. Our signature galbi is marinated in a special sauce made from over ten ingredients, including ganjang (soy sauce), apples, and pears, enhancing its flavor even further.”
Chef Shim also places special emphasis on manpower management. The kitchen team he leads consists of over 150 members. He acknowledges, "Managing such a large team is never an easy task. Ensuring that the staff meet and maintain the standards I desire is a lifelong commitment."
The reason he prioritizes ‘the best’ and ‘the utmost’ in every aspect is simple: he hopes that COTE becomes a source of happiness for everyone. Chef Shim shared, "At COTE, we have a motto: 'Meat + Fire + Alcohol = Happiness'", expressing his desire to bring special joy to everyone who visits.
The Path to Globalizing Hansik
How does Chef Shim Envision the Future of Hansik?
“The awareness of Hansik in the New York fine dining industry is noticeably evolving each year. While in the past, knowledge of Hansik may have been limited to basic familiarity, now it extends to understanding preferred types of kimchi and even methods of fermenting sauces." explained Shim.
He continued, "To globalize Hansik, we must showcase superior Korean ingredients. As global perception of Hansik rapidly expands, it is essential to provide increasingly diverse experiences." In fact, his efforts continue to innovate with various ingredients, such as introducing dureupjangajji (pickled fastia shoot) to customers this spring.
▲ Various dishes offered at COTE
When asked about his aspirations as a Best Overseas Korean Restaurant, Chef Shim responded, "I believe that steadily progressing as we are now is the path to globalizing Hansik. Just as we have introduced Korean food in New York and Miami, I will strive to promote Hansik in various regions." He added, "I want to continue providing excellent food and service without losing the initial passion."
We eagerly anticipate the next steps of COTE, where meat and happiness flourish together.
